Rick Owens’ Fall/Winter 2015 Sphinx collection is arguably one of his most provocative and talked-about shows to date. Known for pushing boundaries, Owens drew inspiration from a French film set in a military submarine, where the intense pressure caused shapes to warp and transform unexpectedly. This idea of tension and transformation played out dramatically on the runway. While nudity was initially meant to be subtle, it ended up taking center stage, sparking both fascination and controversy.
Owens has never been one to shy away from exploring sexuality in his work. The season before Sphinx, he referenced a scene from Nijinsky’s 1912 ballet Afternoon of a Faun, in which a faun masturbates over a lost nymph’s scarf. During that show, models walked down the runway clutching scarves, and Owens later quipped, “Everybody in the audience is just waiting for this guy to hump the scarf. I love that!” His fearless approach to taboo subjects continued with the Sphinx collection, where he even enlisted Rick Castro, a renowned S&M photographer, to shoot his 93-year-old father for the AW14 lookbook. In an era where discussions about censorship and sexuality are increasingly heated, Owens boldly ventured into territory few designers dared to touch.
The Sphinx show quickly became a social media sensation, with hashtags like #DickOwens and #Freethepeen trending as people reacted to the audacious display. The collection also caught the attention of major media outlets, leading to a flood of interview requests for Owens. When asked by Womenswear Daily about the show’s provocative nature, he responded with his signature wit and insight: “We all know that runway looks aren’t meant to be taken literally. They illustrate an ethos.” He went on to explain, “I pass classical marble statues of nude and draped figures in the park every day, and they are a vision of sensuality—yes, but also of grace and freedom. As a participant in one of our most progressive aesthetic arenas, am I not allowed to use this imagery?”
The Sphinx collection was more than just a fashion show; it was a statement about freedom, art, and the human form. While it sparked debate, it also solidified Rick Owens’ reputation as a designer unafraid to challenge norms and provoke thought. Whether you loved it or were shocked by it, there’s no denying the impact of this bold, boundary-pushing moment in fashion history.
