Rick Owens
Product Codes, Leathers, Materials & Colors
A reference for identifying Rick Owens garments, decoding their labels, and researching historic leather, textile, and color codes. Includes the collection index from 1998 through the latest runway season shown in 2026.
Reading the Product Codes
Start with the letters at the beginning of the code. They tell you the product line. The numbers and letters that follow help identify the season, year, style and material.
Newer Rick Owens Codes (2021–Present)
The newer format is simple: 01 = Spring/Summer (SS) and 02 = Fall/Winter (FW). The letter immediately after 01 or 02 tells you the year.
RU01B1763-LGW
| Code Part | Example | Meaning |
|---|---|---|
| Line | RU | Rick Owens Mainline Menswear |
| Season | 01 | Spring/Summer (SS); 02 = Fall/Winter (FW) |
| Year | B | 2022 (A = 2021, B = 2022, C = 2023, etc.) |
| Style | 1763 | The garment or product style number |
| Material | LGW | The fabric or leather code (here, washed lamb leather) |
Example: RU01B1763-LGW identifies a Rick Owens mainline men’s style from Spring/Summer 2022, made in the material identified by LGW. The color is often printed separately, such as 09 = black.
| Season Code | Collection |
|---|---|
| 01 | Spring / Summer (SS) |
| 02 | Fall / Winter (FW) |
| Year Letter | Year |
|---|---|
| A | 2021 |
| B | 2022 |
| C | 2023 |
| D | 2024 |
| E | 2025 |
| F | 2026 |
For example, 01F = Spring/Summer 2026, while 02F = Fall/Winter 2026.
Older Code Formats
| Era | Example | How to Read It |
|---|---|---|
| Before Fall/Winter 2013 | RU 5256 /UC 0078 | RU = Mainline Men; 5256 = Style; UC = Fabric; 0078 = Color. The year usually is not printed in the code. |
| Fall/Winter 2013 – Spring/Summer 2021 | DU15F5152-R 09 | DU = DRKSHDW Men; 15 = 2015; F = Fall/Winter (S = Spring/Summer); 5152 = Style; R = Fabric; 09 = Black. |
| Fall/Winter 2021 onward | RU01B1763-LGW | RU = Mainline Men; 01 = Spring/Summer; B = 2022; 1763 = Style; LGW = Leather. |
A product code identifies a design and variation; it is not a unique serial number. The exact layout may differ between garments and accessories.
Collection & Line Prefixes
The starting letters distinguish mainline, runway, diffusion, and other product families.
| Code | Line / Meaning |
|---|---|
| RU | Mainline Menswear (Rick Uomo) |
| RR | Mainline Men's Runway |
| RP | Mainline Womenswear |
| RO | Mainline Women's Runway |
| RF | Rick Owens Forever (Core Styles) |
| DU | DRKSHDW Menswear |
| DS | DRKSHDW Womenswear |
| U | DRKSHDW Footwear (Selected Styles) |
| LI | Rick Owens Lilies |
| HU | Hunrod Jewelry |
Prefix assignments are a guide to the labeled product family. Special collaborations, footwear, accessories, and limited lines may require additional research.
Tag Eras & Label Dating
The care tag is most useful when read together with the product code, collection references and construction details.
| Era | Typical Code | Dating Method | Common Label Features |
|---|---|---|---|
| Earlier Production – SS13 | RU 2754 /G 0009 | The year generally is not shown in the product code | Older woven labels; some pieces reference Olmar & Mirta |
| FW13 – SS21 | DU13F03004-SBW | Two-digit year plus S or F generally identifies season | Revised care-label format and more explicit dating information |
| FW21 Onward | RU01B1763-LGW | 01 = SS, 02 = FW; the next letter indicates the year | Newer multi-language care labels; style details vary |
Mainline & DRKSHDW
Mainline and DRKSHDW are separate lines, with overlapping design language but distinct codes, fabrics and pricing. Compare the actual item and its era, not the brand name alone.
| Attribute | Rick Owens Mainline | DRKSHDW |
|---|---|---|
| Typical Prefixes | RU, RR, RP, RO, RF | DU, DS; selected footwear may use another prefix |
| Typical Focus | Runway collections, tailoring, leatherwear, premium textiles | Denim, cotton, casualwear, sneakers and recurring silhouettes |
| Sizing | Numeric and other sizing conventions by category | Numeric or alpha sizing by item |
| Manufacturing | Often Italy; check each label | Italy and other countries depending on product |
| Value | Depends on model, season, condition and demand | Depends on model, season, condition and demand |
Converse x DRKSHDW releases are not the same products as mainline Rick Owens leather Ramones. Product names can overlap across lines; confirm the collaboration and exact style.
Leather Codes
Rick Owens leather codes usually describe the animal hide, finish or texture. The exact leather may differ between collections.
| Code | Leather / Description |
|---|---|
| LALP | Calf and Horse Leather Combination |
| LAT | Laminated Horse Leather |
| LB | Blistered Lamb Leather |
| LBO | Box Calf Leather |
| LCW | Heavyweight Calf Leather |
| LD | Distressed / Crinkled Lamb Leather |
| LFE | Smooth Calf Leather |
| LG | Grained Lamb Leather |
| LGCOM | Grained Lamb Leather with Combination Panels |
| LGE | Material not confirmed |
| LGI | Glass Ice Lamb Leather |
| LGW | Washed Lamb Leather |
| LGWM | Heavy Washed Calf Leather |
| LIN98 | Cracked Leather (Mastodon Adidas) |
| LK | Kangaroo Leather |
| LKUP | Laser-Cut Calf Leather |
| LL | Washed Calf Leather |
| LLU | Textured Calf Leather (Walrus) |
| LLUP | Textured Calf Leather (Walrus) |
| LM | Metallic Calf Leather |
| LMO | Medium-Weight Smooth Lamb Leather |
| LMS | Blistered Suede |
| LNB | Blistered Lamb Leather |
| LNS | Stretch Lamb Leather |
| LNS99 | Heavy Stretch Lamb Leather (Adidas Collaboration) |
| LNSP | 64% Lamb, 34% Cotton, 2% Elastane; Calf Details (Through FW15) |
| LNSP | 64% Sheep, 34% Cotton, 2% Elastane; Lamb Details (SS16 Onward) |
| LO | Oiled Calf Leather |
| LP | Hammered Lamb Leather |
| LPD | Blistered Calf Leather (Footwear) |
| LPL | Sea-Wolf Fish Leather (Walrus) |
| LPO | Oiled Calf Leather |
| LPV | Lightweight Calf Leather |
| LR | Rugged Lamb Leather |
| LRHG | Suede Goat Leather |
| LS | Silky Lamb Leather |
| LSH | Lamb Shearling |
| LSHO | Lamb Shearling with Calf Details |
| LSHP | Lamb Shearling |
| LSN11 | Smooth Leather (Mastodon Adidas) |
| LSSPS | Stretch Lamb Suede |
| LST | Translucent Snakeskin (Cyclops) |
| LT | Washed Calf Leather |
| LTQ | Material not confirmed |
Fabric & Material Codes
Common and archival fabrics listed by their material code. A code may refer to different compositions in different collections. Refer to the garment’s sewn care label for exact fiber percentages.
| Code | Material / Reported Composition |
|---|---|
| ABLV | 100% Wool (Blanket) |
| B | 100% Cotton (/UC-Style, Hemmed) |
| B | 100% Woven Suiting Cotton (Summer Weight) |
| BA | 100% Fine-Weave Stiff Cotton |
| BADNEM | Mixed Cotton and Wool Fabrics, Including Wool/Polyamide Panels (Sphinx) |
| BB | 100% Bamboo |
| BLV | 100% Cotton (Bleach Vomit Finish, Mastodon) |
| BNSK | 100% Cotton with Polyester Embroidery |
| BS | 100% Cotton Denim |
| BW | 100% Cotton (Black Waxed Denim) |
| BWS | 100% Cashmere |
| CAMO | 97% Cotton, 3% Elastane (Camouflage Print) |
| CC | 100% Cotton (Coated) |
| CE | 100% Cotton Velvet |
| CG | 100% Stiff Silk |
| CN | 100% Cotton (Corduroy-Like Weave) |
| CW | 100% Wool Bouclé |
| D | 100% Stiff Cotton |
| D | 100% Technical Cotton |
| DN | Polyester / Polyamide / Elastane Blend (Unconfirmed Percentages) |
| DT | 100% Stiff Cotton |
| E | 100% Wool (Suiting) |
| F | 100% Cotton (Felpa Fleece) |
| F | 100% Felted Suiting Wool (Mastodon) |
| FA | 55% Polyester, 45% Silk |
| FEMB | 100% Wool with Cotton Embroidery |
| FP | 100% Jersey Cotton |
| G | 100% Cotton |
| GC | 55% Hemp, 45% Wool |
| HGC | 100% Wool Knit (Mastodon) |
| HM | 100% Virgin Wool (Woven) |
| JR | 100% Silk |
| JS | 85% Viscose, 15% Silk |
| JS | Jersey / Silk Blend (Reported) |
| JT | 100% Cotton |
| K | 53% Viscose, 47% Cupro |
| K | Acetate / Rayon / Cotton / Silk Blend (Unconfirmed Percentages) |
| KB | 100% Bleached Cotton Denim |
| KTR | 100% Cotton Denim |
| M | 100% Cotton Poplin |
| M | 100% New Wool |
| M | 80% New Wool, 20% Nylon |
| MD | 100% Stiff Woven Silk |
| MO | 100% Cotton Moleskin |
| MOA | 100% Cotton Moleskin |
| MP | Paper-Like Cotton (Reported) |
| MR | 100% Cotton |
| MU | 52% Cotton, 48% Nylon (Murray) |
| MY | 54% Wool, 22% Yak, 19% Nylon, 5% Elastane (Mastodon) |
| N | 100% Nylon |
| N | 39% Viscose, 39% Cotton, 22% Polyester (Walrus) |
| NR | 100% Cotton (Woven and Jersey Construction) |
| NX | 100% Shiny Nylon |
| OC | 87% Cotton, 13% Silk |
| P | 98% Cotton, 2% Spandex (Poplin) |
| PC | 100% Silk |
| PW | 97% Cotton, 3% Elastane (Waxed Finish) |
| R | 100% Jersey Cotton (Early DRKSHDW) |
| R | 40% Viscose, 31% Nylon, 26% Wool, 3% Elastane (Moody) |
| R | 53% Cotton, 47% Linen (Velvet, Mastodon) |
| RC | 85% Viscose, 15% Silk |
| RIG | 100% Stiff Midweight Cotton |
| RN | 100% Cotton |
| RNIP | 53% Cotton, 47% Linen (Velvet with Contrast Panels, Mastodon) |
| RPAT | 100% Cotton (/R Base, Patch Detailing) |
| RWEB | 100% Cotton with Cotton Ribbon |
| S | 100% Cotton (Similar to /F) |
| SA | 65% New Wool, 22% Mohair, 7% Viscose, 6% Polyamide (Bouclé) |
| SBB | Denim and Elastane (Percentages Unspecified) |
| SBI | 97% Cotton Denim, 3% Lycra |
| SBL | 98% Cotton Denim, 2% Spandex |
| SW | 89% New Wool, 11% Nylon |
| T | 60% Viscose, 40% Wool |
| TB | 100% Cotton (Triple-Black Coated Denim) |
| TDD | 97% Cotton, 3% Elastane (Woven) |
| TE | 97% Cotton, 3% Rubber |
| TES | 97% Cotton, 3% Rubber (Striped Big Shorts) |
| U | 50% Polyester, 45% Cotton, 5% Wool |
| UC | 100% Cotton (Unstable Cotton) |
| V | 80% Viscose, 20% Silk (Velour) |
| WD | 100% Virgin Wool |
| WD | 80% Wool, 20% Nylon |
| WEFA | 53% New Wool, 47% Viscose (Tuxedo Lapel / Wool Shell) |
| WL | 57% Wool, 43% Viscose |
| WM | 44% Mohair, 37% Polyamide, 19% Wool |
| WM | 70% Mohair, 30% Silk |
| WMC | 58% Mohair, 32% Polyamide, 10% Wool (Mastodon) |
| WO | 54% Polyester, 44% Wool, 2% Elastane (Seersucker, Mastodon) |
| WP | 100% Cotton (Waxed Poplin) |
| WP | 100% Waxed Cotton |
| WP | 64% Viscose, 34% Wool, 2% Elastane |
| WS | 100% Knitted Cashmere |
| WSB | 100% Boiled Cashmere |
| WSL | Cashmere / Wool / Polyamide Blend (Unconfirmed Percentages) |
| Z | 100% Cotton (Island) |
| Z | 100% Silk |
| ZL | 96% Wool, 4% Elastane (Lightweight, Cyclops) |
| ZLMA | 96% Wool, 4% Elastane (Main Fabric); 60% Silk, 40% Acetate (Details) |
Color Codes
Color codes help identify Rick Owens shades. Older labels often use four digits, while newer labels may show two. Colors can vary by fabric, finish and season.
| Code | Color / Description |
|---|---|
| 0001 | Bleach / Fluoro |
| 0004 | Bitter |
| 0006 | Passport |
| 0008 | Pearl |
| 0009 | Black |
| 0011 | Milk |
| 0012 | Daffodil |
| 0014 | Parchment |
| 0015 | Jade / Nil / Light Grey |
| 0018 | Dark Shad |
| 0019 | Splash / Bleached Black Denim |
| 0023 | Flesh |
| 0024 | Resin |
| 0025 | Palm |
| 0028 | Bone / Tear |
| 0029 | Blackity Black |
| 0034 | Dust / Mineral |
| 0035 | Mustard |
| 0039 | Hard Black |
| 0044 | Blood |
| 0046 | Dirty Blue |
| 0048 | Petrol |
| 0053 | Raisins |
| 0077 | DRK Shad |
| 0078 | Dark Dust |
| 0083 | Koolaid |
| 0091 | Trashed Black |
| 0099 | Black Mineral / Indigo-Overdyed Black |
| 0119 | Black / Milk |
| 0978 | Black / Dark Dust |
| 0991 | Bleach Vomit / Bleached Black Denim |
Collection / Season Reference
Find the Rick Owens collection name associated with each season. For older garments without the year printed in the product code, collection details can be useful for dating.
| Season | Collection Name |
|---|---|
| SS98 | Monsters |
| FW98 | Liebestod |
| SS99 | Elektra |
| FW99 | Hydra |
| SS00 | Swans |
| FW00 | Dust |
| SS01 | Powder |
| FW01 | Slab |
| SS02 | Vapor |
| FW02 | Sparrows |
| SS03 | Sukerball |
| FW03 | Trucker |
| SS04 | Citroen |
| FW04 | Queen |
| SS05 | Scorpio |
| FW05 | Moog |
| SS06 | Tungsten |
| FW06 | Dustulator |
| SS07 | Wishbone |
| FW07 | Exploder |
| SS08 | Creatch |
| FW08 | Stag |
| SS09 | Strutter |
| FW09 | Crust |
| SS10 | Release |
| FW10 | Gleam |
| SS11 | Anthem |
| FW11 | Limo |
| SS12 | Naska |
| FW12 | Mountain |
| SS13 | Island |
| FW13 | Plinth |
| SS14 | Vicious |
| FW14 | Moody |
| SS15 | Faun |
| FW15 | Sphinx |
| SS16 | Cyclops |
| FW16 | Mastodon |
| SS17 | Walrus |
| FW17 | Glitter |
| SS18 | Dirt |
| FW18 | Sisyphus |
| SS19 | Babel |
| FW19 | Larry |
| SS20 | Tecuatl |
| FW20 | Performa |
| SS21 | Phlegethon |
| FW21 | Gethsemane |
| SS22 | Fogachine |
| FW22 | Strobe |
| SS23 | Edfu |
| FW23 | Luxor |
| SS24 | Lido |
| FW24 | Porterville |
| SS25 | Hollywood |
| FW25 | Concordians |
| SS26 | Temple |
| FW26 | Tower |
| SS27 | Stone |
Authenticity Checklist
Use the product code, care label and garment construction together. A matching code can help identify a piece, but does not prove that it is authentic.
| Check | What to Look For | Keep in Mind |
|---|---|---|
| Prefix vs. Listing | DU / DS often indicates DRKSHDW, not standard mainline apparel. | Some accessory, collaborative and special-product numbering differs. |
| Code Format | Year or season characters that contradict the garment’s stated period warrant scrutiny. | Replicas may copy authentic codes; real tags have changed over time. |
| Care Label Quality | Poor printing, misspellings, inconsistent text or badly constructed tags merit further checks. | Font, tag fabric and construction can differ by factory and period. |
| Country of Origin | Compare the origin with equivalent confirmed pieces and the exact product family. | Check the specific style and production period rather than relying on one country. |
| Fabric Composition | Compare the sewn percentages, finish and panel construction. | Historical lists may be incomplete; compositions vary across seasons. |
| Sizing | Compare actual sizing practice for the garment type. | S/M/L, numeric and one-size labels do not universally separate authentic from fake. |
| Missing Product Code | Ask for the full set of labels and details. | Missing / faded tags alone do not settle authenticity. |
| Shoes and Collaborations | Compare heel, sole, silhouette, insoles, branding and exact product name. | Converse DRKSHDW and mainline leather footwear are different products. |
If a listing is expensive or authentication-critical, ask for complete tag photographs, outsole and hardware details, garment measurements, original purchase documentation when available, and multiple close-up construction images. Codes are one piece of evidence, not final proof.
References
Further reading on Rick Owens product codes, collections and archival materials.
- r/malefashion — Rick Owens Fabric, Material and Colour Guide (2018)
- Instagram — Rick Owens Tag Eras Guide
- Rick Owens — Official Runway Show Archive
- Wardatrobe — Product Code Dating Guide (2026)
- TRUSS Archive — How to Identify Rick Owens
Midtown Archive · Updated October 2026. An independent archive and collector reference, not affiliated with Rick Owens.